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Bonsai Wiring Basics

Many bonsai trees get their elegant profile through a process that consists of wrapping aluminum or copper wiring from the bonsai’s base and around the branches. In order to create basic bonsai styles, you have to wrap the trunk and branches with the correct thickness and length of wire. The formal upright style requires no wrapping, however the cascade shape calls for many months of extensive training.

The process of wiring adds stress along the trunk or branch, so proceed with caution. Improper technique could easily lead to broken branches or even worse, a damaged trunk that causes the tree to perish. You can also wrap it too forcefully or even at the wrong time of year. If this occurs the tree will get a scar that takes a long time to heal, and there is also the eventuality of the tree dying.

Before you tackle your actual tree, practice with a basic wooden pole or small tree branch. This will help you in getting a feel for the wire and will help you build up the dexterity necessary to wrap a branch while holding it. As soon as you’re comfortable hanging on to the branch one-handed while wrapping with your other hand, not pulling or bending anything expect the wrapped component, you may then move on to the bonsai tree.

Step one is picking the most suitable wire for the task. Copper and aluminum are the two favorite choices, although copper is believed to be more attractive throughout the extended training period. When wrapping a bonsai, utilize annealed copper only, as steel wire is toxic to several species. Aluminum is a lot more flexible, so it is easier to utilize for a person who is new at this kind of project. Though copper is stiffer, it may scar the tree if it is not applied properly. As a rule of thumb, select wire that is 1/3 of the branch’s thickness.

In order for the wire to be able to shape the tree, you must randomly apply small stresses throughout the length of the trunk or branch. So, in order for the tree to alter its shape and not the wire, the wire has to be more powerful than the branch or trunk.

Try wrapping branches from comparable trees to improve your skill and dexterity. Test different thicknesses of wire on branches of a comparable species and size before using it on the bonsai. For doing the full tree many different thicknesses will be required and you should practice using each and every of them.

Wiring a bonsai is a skill that requires a lot of patience in order to master. Do not be disheartened, though, because if you are prepared to take the time you can learn how to do this, and you’ll be so pleased with the results.

The cultivation of bonsai trees has been an Asian tradition for centuries, and is now enjoying popularity in western society as well. It’s important to learn some bonsai basics so you can watch your tree flourish. Check out Bonsai Trees for Beginners to get an introduction to this fascinating art.

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How To Select A Bonsai Tree

Learning how to grow bonsai can be a very rewarding hobby. Firstly consideration must be taken to select a tree suitable for cultivation.

Peaches and Pears.

Though rarely seen as dwarfed potted trees they make lovely ones. These are, with a few exceptions, called by the “dignified” connoisseurs merely “potted lowering trees”

Birches.

Every birch that attains one to two feet in height is limited and kept to that height easily, and needs only pinching to regulate growth. The dwarfed trees possess the fine slender white-barked trunks, with handsome foliage. I highly recommend that you try birch. Place the container, in summer, into another larger and shallower basin filled with water and carry it to your room.

Pines.

Pines, the inhabitants of the poor, dry, sandy soils, become weakened or die off if the drainage is poor in the containers. The bonsai basics involve removing the tree from the container, with its ball of soil. Some soil should be removed from all faces of the ball, and the exposed root and rootlets cut off. In repotting, put coarse sand sparingly on the bottom of the same container; place the pine on the sand and fill the container with new soil to take the place of the old.

For dwarfed and denser growth, pinching of new growth must not be neglected. As the tree becomes older the pinching should be lighter.

The thickly cork-barked Black Pines are much admired for their trunks; the bark is thicker than the trunk itself. Japanese Red Pines are not much appreciated, but their slender trunks with impressive reddish bark are very ornamental-whether planted singly or several trees together in a container.

The Japanese White Pine (Pinus parvifiora) is extensively grown and dwarfed, though there are also many naturally dwarfed, aged trees of this species. Pines symbolize longevity.

Japanese Flowering Apricots.

If you are in Japan in the midst of winter, you will see Japanese homes with flowering apricots (Prunus mume) in dwarfed potted forms. There are numerous named varieties, single flowered or semi-double, upright and weeping.
These dwarfed potted Mumes bring life-long joy with their delightful and very sweet fragrant blooms in late winter and early spring. Just after the blooms have faded, every shoot or twig that bloomed should be shortened to the lowest one or two buds, from which new growth soon comes to replace the twigs that were removed.

Bamboo.

The dwarfed potted bamboos are very decorative indoors and out. They require a lot of attention initially to remove one sheath per day whilst the plant is still immature.

Care needs to be taken when selecting your tree to ensure it matches your lifestyle. Learn the art of bonsai with these basics and enjoy your cultivation of these lovely potted trees!

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The Art of Growing Bonsai Elm

There are hundreds of varieties of minature trees to choose from when cultivating a bonsai garden. The gray-barked elm (Japanese zelkova) can be trained to form miniatures of the naturally grown forest trees, and will make beautiful bonsai. These bonsai elm are much sought after.

Unwanted sprouts. At budding time in the spring and after leaf thinning, sprouts appear at unexpected places on the trunk and branches, and these should be rubbed off or cut off. Autumn. After the leaves have fallen, any disproportionate and undesirable twigs and shoots are removed, so as to enhance the symmetrical and delicate beauty of fine twigs and shoots which produce the atmosphere and image of a great tree throughout the winter.

Branches in a circle and a branch parallel to trunk should both be avoided. Then the renewing and rewarding beauty of the young leaves is awaited.

General Care For Bonsai Elm

Soil for growing bonsai should be selected to match the variety of plant. For potting soil for zelkova bonsai I use loamy soil from cultivated land or sandy loam from the mountains. The soil is sifted through a sieve (â…›-inch mesh), and used only after it has been well and thoroughly dried. The tree should be planted in the dry soil in the pan, and the pan shaken several times after planting. The surface of the soil is then leveled and immediately watered gently and thoroughly with a watering can. The soil should never be pressed.

Surface roots. When a zelkova bonsai becomes older, several roots become thick and appear at the surface of the soil. Such a “root-surfaced-on-the-soil” tree is much sought after and very ornamental. However, if the roots are surfaced when the tree is young, they never thicken; only roots in the soil will do so. After learning by bitter experience, I cover surfaced roots slightly with soil, and on this place moss.

As the roots develop, the moss becomes scanty and the roots gradually appear on the surface. I have several trees of the same age that do show surfaced roots. Bonsai merchants often show surface-root formations in young trees for commercial reasons, but this is not good for nice root formation on the soil later on.

Shading. In the hottest weather, July and August, the trees are shaded; I use marsh-reed screens.

Watering. Over watering is not good for the trees. Learning how to grow bonsai and watching them evolve over time is a beautiful way to appreciate plants and gain hours of enjoyment.

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